![]() ![]() (I would not recommend going much thinner than this.) I rounded over the edges of all the slats using a 3/16" radius round-over bit in the router table. It was sanded smooth to the line of the curve. I drew it out on a piece of scrap plywood first, transferred it to the rails and cut it out using the bandsaw. The arch is 1/2” tall at the center of the rail. It’s a subtle detail that, along with the corbels, softens the lines. I cut a small arched curve into the bottom of each of the lower rails. The thickness of one saw kerf was sufficient - 1/8". I set the tablesaw fence to 1/2” and ripped a slot approximately 1/4” deep along the inside top edge of each of the four top crosspieces. To allow for seasonal wood movement, I used table-mounting clips to attach the tops to the bases. You could, however, just as easily make them 3/4” thick.Īfter cutting the crosspieces, I sorted them and marked each with where it would be installed. (Remember that the dimensions on my cutting list assume you’ll be using dowels too.) My crosspieces were all 1” thick, which I could achieve because of my 5/4 rough stock. If I decided to use dowels, pocket holes or floating tenons, I could simply cut the pieces to fit between the legs. If I used mortise-and-tenon joinery, I would need to make allowances for the tenons when cutting these pieces to length. Image right) For planing, the strips are fastened to plywood with double-sided tape.īefore cutting the crosspieces and vertical slats, I had to decide how I would assemble my project. Image left) Ripping 1/8” strips for the sides of the legs. Prevent this by using double-sided tape to attach your strips to a piece of plywood and feed the entire structure through the planer. Note: 1/8” thick stock can easily shatter when fed through the planer. (If necessary, you can run the blanks through the planer one last time to bring the legs down to the final 1-1/2” square dimensions.) After the pieces were dry, I removed any squeeze-out and used a flush-trimming bit in the router table to trim the edges of the 1/8” strips flush to the sides of the legs. To avoid gaps and bubbles on such thin pieces, I used lots of clamps to ensure the clamping pressure was spread evenly over the entire piece of wood. I ripped and planed some of the wood down to 1/8” thick strips and glued these onto the sides of the legs. Since I laminated two pieces together to achieve the desired thickness, I had to come up with a way of hiding the glue line.
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